St. Germain’s Less Gentrified Past

January 7th, 2017

john-baxtrFollowing up on his popular book The Most Beautiful Walk in the World, John Baxter is writing a new series of books about the great neighborhoods of Paris. The first in the series is about Saint Germain des Pres, one of the most beloved areas of Paris. Part history and part guide book, Baxter infuses the book with entertaining and fascinating stories: the bizarre account of a garden behind Saint Germain church memorializing poet Guillaume Apollinaire involving Jean Cocteau and Picasso; the juicy details of legal brothels in Paris in the late 1800s–including two gay ones with Proust as an investor and, one on rue Saint Sulpice, catering almost exclusively to priests from the church; the history of chocolate including the first chocolatier in Paris (Debauve et Gallais); and the Beat hotel where Burroughs, Ginsberg and Corso resided. The easy-to-read book also contains a map with key points of interest, photos and drawings.

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New Cataracts with that Croissant?

December 20th, 2016

Ever since my un-expected encounter with mortality and the French medical system back in 2007 (“Thinking about Having Brain Surgery During Your Stay?”), I have been encouraging my fellow Americans to come to France for medical care.  Not only do they have some of the best doctors and hospitals in Europe, but the price is definitely right. For example, a friend told me that an MRI can cost up to $6,000 in the US, while here it would cost $200 max (and I should know, I get them every two years). For that price, you could come to France, take a tour of the Loire Valley, get your MRI and still have spare change. The only tricky part would be the paperwork: stuff like visas, insurance papers, and making sure your prescriptions/doctor’s instructions would be accepted on this side of the pond.

medical-tourism-1But it seems that is no longer an issue. After watching from afar as Germany, Belgium and the UK profited from US medical pricing excesses, France has finally jumped on the medical-tourism bandwagon. As of November 1, the French public hospital network (Assistance publique-Hôpitaux de Paris) is launching a medical tourism program aimed directly at foreign visitors who wish to benefit from competitive prices and quality care. And while that care usually comes in a plain brown wrapper here in France (bland waiting rooms, ugly doctors offices, minimal creature comfort options), this new program offers packages that include medical care, hotel stay and concierge service. You simply send in your application with your medical records to a hospital specialist with a secure server, and they send you back a quote for the package.

The only catch? They want you to prepay.

A Rare French Holiday Gift

December 8th, 2016

copperbayToday’s technology means we’ve all gone global and there are very few things that can’t be shipped directly to your door with the touch of a few buttons (and a credit card!) While this might make life easier, it makes finding truly original and unique presents to bring back from Paris a little harder. Wanna know what to buy that can’t be found easily, affordably or at all outside of Paris? Read on…

Local cocktail bar CopperBay collaborated with the Distillerie de Paris to create their own brand of gin. While you can find the original version at the Distillerie de Paris website and the bar itself, there’s also a Navy piconStrength version that you can only get at the bar. Definitely something your drinks-minded friends won’t have back home! As a bonus, the bar also has a small selection of CopperBay branded products like their cool nautical duffel bag. Cost: 49 euros.

The old-school French aperitif Amer Picon is next to impossible to find outside of France, meaning Cocktaillians go crazy for it and will be most appreciative of anyone willing to lug home a bottle in their bags. There are 4 versions including the black label, club, citron and biere – with the last being the easiest to find. Cost: 11 euros!

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Best Methods to Transfer Money to France

December 5th, 2016

moneySuch a great city! And such an expensive one. In Paris it’s possible to burn through money pretty fast, and you feel awfully vulnerable when you run out.

So, how do you replenish the coffers? And how do you do it while minimizing the fees and commissions, and while getting a decent exchange rate?

For this article, I’m assuming you have funds in the US that you want to move to France. There are a few good ways to do it, and a lot of bad ones. You should review the ideas I list below, and then check out all the comments that are bound to pop up as people chime in (or set me straight).

There are lots of options—from PayPal to toting gold coins in your carryon (just kidding!)—but in every case you want to ask two questions: 1) What are the fees for the service; and 2) How good is the exchange rate? The answers can have a huge impact on what you get for your money.

Disclaimer: We’re not sponsored by any of the services/companies mentioned here, and we’re also not financial gurus. The information provided is checked to the best of our abilities, but it’s provided “as is.”

wiretransfer1. Transferring funds from the US to a French bank account:

First off, make sure you have a French account to transfer funds to! If you’re looking to open your own account at a French bank, be forewarned: the IRS has made reporting of American accounts so burdensome, that many French banks don’t want to bother with it! (Maybe we should do an article on opening a bank account!)

But let’s day you already have that French account, or else you are transferring money to someone else’s account. To start the process, you need to have the banking information for the account you are transferring to—otherwise known as the relevé d’identité bancaire (or RIB). This will include the bank codes, the account holder’s name, and, especially the IBAN (the International Bank Account Number – a system used throughout Europe, but not domestically in the US).

>Pros and cons of different methods

The Streets, the Sex, the Scandals

November 6th, 2016

la_bigne_valtesseIn the annals of self-invention, Emilie-Louise Delabigne was an Olympian. Giving herself an invented first name that rhymed with the French for “your highness” and inserting spaces that made her surname seem more aristocratic, she also christened herself a “Comtesse.” In reality, Comtesse Valtesse de la Bigne was the teenage prostitute daughter of a prostitute mother. For single, working-class women in 19th century Paris, selling one’s flesh was one of the few routes for upward mobility. And how she rose!

As chronicled in the page-turning biography The Mistress of Paris: The 19th Century Courtesan Who Built an Empire on a Secret, Valtesse graduated from being a grisette (streetwalker) to a lorette (kept woman) to, ultimately, the surprisingly refined realm of courtesan–a high-priced, publicly revered mistress to wealthy and powerful men. Her lovers included military men, politicians, even painters such as Eduard Detaille. Emile Zola’s novel Nana was based in part on her, and Manet painted her portrait. When politician Leon Gambetta accidentally shot himself, the press wondered if Valtesse–his neighbor–was somehow involved, and she was also name-dropped in the scandalous anti-semitic milestone, the Dreyfus Affair.

mistressShe was a unique beauty, with red hair that was marveled at in society pages–which tracked her movements the way TMZ chronicles the Kardashians today. But looks alone are not what catapulted Valtesse to riches and public fascination. A classic auto-didact, she was a voracious reader, a savvy political observer, and an astute collector of art. It’s clear that distinguished men paid handsomely for her company both in and out of bed.

The sheer willpower of Valtesse reverberates off the pages of Catherine Hewitt’s book. Valtesse deposits her two sickly babies with her mother, paying for their keep. She sleeps with journalists in exchange for good press. She rarely if ever revealed any of her sorrows…it wasn’t becoming. And so, while the Herculean task of maintaining beauty, fashionability and mystique is carefully documented in this book, there are few hints of any real underlying sorrow. Was she really so calculating that true love never touched her? We get a clear view of the public Valtesse, but not enough of the woman in private.

Valtesse knew how to make people want more. This book does, as well. That hollowness at its cor e perhaps simply reflects a characteristic of its heroine. (Towards the end of her life, when she no longer needed to perpetuate a mythic status, Valtesse had her ancestors painted on the walls of her home. All but one were fictional.) Still, the easy-to-read, if cliche writing (“As voices hummed and glasses clinked, the staff move about silently, each performing his or her role to perfection.”) is a guilty-pleasure way to bone up on French history and social life from the 1850s to the turn of the 20th century.

More New Museums!

October 28th, 2016

glass-works-museumI often lament that France feels more and more like a museum–it’s beautiful and classic, but backwards in its bloated bureaucracy, turgid politics and social nostalgia. It is ossified to the point where many tourists–I’d say most tourists–come just to look at it, eat great bread, and feel nostalgic. Well, I do like museums. And France will see at least 15 new ones between here and 2019, according to the newspaper Le Figaro. Yet another museum dedicated to perfume will open in Paris, while more far-flung locations will see the likes of an art glass museum. Art Forum has some details in English.

Sweet and Simple Bistro in the Marais

October 26th, 2016

tinIt’s tucked away on a Marais side street, at 8 Rue de Jouy, that I’d almost forgotten about Metropolitain. The neighborhood standby has been around as long as I can remember with its cherry red storefront dotted with portholes. Passing it last month, I saw they had a 20€ two-course lunch menu and decided to give it a whirl.

Looking like a typical neighborhood bistro, Metropolitain has a white tiled wall with vintage movie posters with opposite walls of exposed stone along with wood tables and bentwood chairs. Touches of fall and Halloween, including pumpkins and gourds, lined the shelves along with bottles of red wine.

The 20€ lunch was the daily entrée and plat (appetizer and main course) special, with no other choices, but luckily it was two things that I liked. A not-so-salty olive tapenade cleverly served in a sardine tin on a cutting board with dried toast on the side was first. A house-cured salmon gravlax served with radish salmonrosettes and dots of beet juice was the entrée. The freshness and flavor of the salmon clearly came through as the curing was not too strong or smoky, and the beet dots gave a subtle but recognizable sweetness to it.

Next up, my plat was roasted codfish with rosemary served with broccoli mousseline. The codfish was perfectly cooked, tasting more steamed than roasted, but I didn’t taste the rosemary. Mousseline and pureed vegetables have been a long-time staple accompaniment to plats but as of late you don’t see it much on menus anymore, so I appreciated the smooth, comforting pool of broccoli mousselline.

Although my meal wasn’t sensational, I still recommend Metropolitain if you are looking for reliable, solid bistro food and don’t need to be dazzled.

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A Vegan in Paris

October 18th, 2016

vegan-1Last weekend there were two big vegan events in Paris, the Veggie Pride parade and market at Place Stalingrad overlooking the canal, and the Veggie World fair at Le Centquatre.

I went to the fair to find some decent vegan cheese for making pizza, and ended up going home with a whole grocery bag full of Tofurky sausages, Nakd raw energy bars in different flavors, bottles of Fils de Pomme artisan cider made an hour from Paris, different kinds of cheese, Rrraw raw chocolates parisveganfood(you can see them at this month’s see them at the Salon du Chocolate, October 28-Nov 1), and some baking ingredients that are now getting easier to find in Parisian health food shops (like egg substitute).

There were also dozens of stands selling vegan dishes to enjoy sur-place, from burgers (the Dutch Weedburgers sold out) and hot dogs to sushi and pastries. Lines were long and the fair was as busy as any food and wine fair you’d attend in Paris. Here are just a few.

French Films That Hit the Jackpot

October 16th, 2016

moulin rouge paris 75009Living in France is so incredible that it makes you feel like you’ve just won the lottery. After all, is there anything more luxurious than taking a stroll to buy freshly-baked brioche from your local boulangerie?
This association isn’t too far-fetched in reality. French history has been changed dramatically due to the lottery – it even created Voltaire’s fortune. And its impact continues to the present-day through France’s lottery-funded projects. Even non-French lottery fans from all over the world get into the French lottery action through sites like theLotter, adding to French lottery’s prestige. It’s no surprise then that France and luck have paired up in cinema for over eight decades. If you’re feeling lucky – and want to practice your French listening skills – here are three excellent options for your next movie night.

Le Million (The Million) – 1931 Nearly thirty years after George Méliès released his silent masterpiece Le Voyage dans la Lun (Trip to the Moon), French cinema glided elegantly into the era of sound film. One of the country’s first talkie gems was René Clair’s Le Million. Like so many of the first sound films, Le Million is a musical comedy. The plot surrounds Michel, a struggling artist who is being suffocated by debt. His luck changes when he wins the lottery, but of course, the story doesn’t end there. Michel leaves the winning ticket in the pocket of an old jacket, which his fiancée gives away before he can claim his prize. The two of them go on a wild chase through the city, encountering dazzling song numbers along the way.

barge on the seineLes Tuches (The Tuches) – 2011 Much had changed in France eighty years after Le Million was made, but Les Tuches’ 2011 release showed that the fascination with lottery winners remained the same. Definitely not as glamourous as Le Million, Les Tuches still manages some charm as a modern-day rags to riches comedy. Follow this zany, messed up family as they win €100 million and travel through France on their way to Monaco. The family is large, the jackpot is larger – the only question that remains is how large are the laughs?

La Liste de mes Envies (The List of My Desires) – 2014 Jocelyne and Jocelyn seem to be a match made in heaven, from their matching names to their perfect family life in northern France. Jocelyne is a wife, mother, and blogger, while her husband Jocelyn is a worker at an ice cream factory. Now that their children are all grown up, Jocelyne has more time to daydream about how different life could be. Her friends convince Jocelyne to buy a EuroMillions ticket – how will fortune change her life? La Liste de mes Envies is based on the best-selling novel by Grégoire Delacourt and has won a place in moviegoers’ hearts.

A Secret Menu and A Boozy Liquid Pizza

October 13th, 2016

secret-cocktailPeople who know about CopperBay’s new hush-hush menu can ask for this mysterious, unmarked, gray menu. There’s only one copy of this hand-drawn notebook, which offers three unusual, creative cocktails. So, what differentiates the secret menu from the standard menu? A few things: The presentation is kicked up a notch. There is more of a savory, culinary aspect to this particular trio. They’ll appeal to cocktail geeks looking for a deviation from the usual drinks. And each one delivers something unexpected or unusual. Because these drinks are more time-consuming to make and served in unusual ways, there is both a limit to how many can be served at one time as well as the hours in which they can be ordered. The Secret Menu is off limits during busy periods, so if you want to give it a try, I suggest an early evening, maybe even midweek.

graybookLet’s start with the Margarita, or what some might call a pizza in a glass. It’s made with anchovy-infused tequila and sun-dried tomato-infused Cointreau and served with a homemade dried olive powder rim. It’s presented on a cork coaster in a tiny pizza box with a side of (excellent!) capers and cheese shavings. I can feel some of you out there resisting the anchovy! Don’t fear the fish. Much like fish sauce can do for certain Asian dishes, the anchovy in this cocktail provides an unexpected umami pop. There are different layers to this drink that unroll at different times. First the nose is heavy with sun-dried tomatoes and then the anchovy lingers longer on the palette. More than just a gimmick, it is an interesting exercise in balance and expectations.

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