L’Entêtée has been on my mind ever since John Talbott pronounced it “the new Spring” and advised “run don’t walk.” Seeing as that was ten months ago, I’m clocking in at a crawl.

Nonetheless, I finally made it there to try the €20 lunch menu. I was psyched about everything I ordered, and on that basis would recommend l’Entêtée. On the downside, both of my friend Sophie’s dishes were totally boring. Not awful, just meh. Let’s get the bad news out of the way first.

Sophie ordered an entrée of salade de canard aux figues, vinaigrette huile noix, jus canard citron. Sounds pretty good, right? In reality, it was a totally zingless plate: mushy duck breast with greens and (unsurprisingly in Paris) fairly flavorless figs. For her plat, Sophie chose a tajine d’agneau pruneaux et citrons, semoule. And it was fine: no complaints, but not exciting. Moving on…

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