Archive for December, 2014


New Year’s Cards

In France, instead of sending Christmas cards, it’s more popular to send New Year’s cards. New Year’s wishes can arrive up to a few weeks after the 1st of the year,  which means that I can take my time writing them, and my family and friends can receive and enjoy them away from all of the […]

Big Easy Cocktails

With a Parisian Belle Époque meets New Orleans’ Storyville vibe and named for one of NOLA’s notorious madams, Lulu White couldn’t have picked a better location than this neighborhood full of working girl bars and girlie-cum-cocktail bars. Pass through the discrete entrance located just next door to Dirty Dick and escape into an elegant, art nouveaux world with a […]

Get Illuminated

Hordes turned out for the annual Festival of Light in Paris. Take a photographic tour here without getting bumped by hot wine-addled spectators.

A Museum’s Storied Past

How many visitors to the Musee Rodin know the details of the building’s strange, entangled history as a crucible for avant-garde art? Once known as the Hôtel Biron, by 1907 the eighteenth-century mansion had fallen into disrepair. For a brief time, the crumbling mansion became an artists’ haven. Low rent attracted the likes of Pablo […]

Jim Morrison’s Mysterious Door

The death of Jim Morrison is not the only mystery in the Rue Beautreillis. On this street where the leader of The Doors spent the last few months of his life and where he (probably) died, another door stands curiously alone. This large stone gateway is the last remaining element of the Hotel Raoul, a […]

Craft Beer in Paris

Last month I trekked out to the gritty (okay, that’s code for ugly and covered in un-attractive-not-artsy graffiti) suburb of Montreuil by line 9 metro to pick up a fresh batch of Jolly Roger pumpkin beer from the rather spiffy micro-brewery of Deck & Donohue. It’s a young expat team from the US and Ireland who give […]

The Yule Log: Back to Its Roots

The fabulous Un Dimanche a Paris, a concept shop, restaurant, and bar all about chocolate has a new collection of Christmas cakes and Buche de Noel for 2014. Renewing an ancient tradition, Un Dimanche a Paris has gone back to the roots of the Buche de Noel, Un Noel en Foret (Christmas in the Forest) […]

Christmas Tree Blues

The tallest Christmas tree in Paris this December is also the thorniest. Standing almost half the height of the Notre Dame towers, this impressive evergreen was not paid for by parishioners or the city of Paris, but by the Russian government. With tensions running high between Moscow and other European capitals, this gift – or […]

Made in France!

Le Syndicat is the self-proclaimed “Organization in Defense of French Spirits” and, as such, focuses strictly on French ingredients. The concept of its creators, Sullivan Doh and Romain Le Mouellic, is to stock the bar with bottles of French Gins, Cognacs, Armagnac, and other ingredients hailing from l’Hexagone. This “Made in France” attitude carries through […]

What the Flock?

For whatever reason, many French people prefer chemically sprayed Christmas trees to real ones. I don’t know why, and can only think that it is some lapse in their usually keen judgment, along with drinking UHT milk instead of fresh and subjecting job candidates to a handwriting analysis. I was excited this year at my usual flower stand […]

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