Not just a hotel dining room, the Brasserie of the Hotel Lutetia is one of the hot spots of the Left Bank. On any given night you might see writers, movie stars and politicians. Even model first lady Carla Sarkozy has visited.

Decorated by the Left Bank’s most ubiquitous designer, Sonia Rykiel, with full respect for its Art Deco history, the brasserie is chic in black and white, chrome and mirrors. The atmosphere is informal: a meeting place for friends (there are several large round tables) or cosy dates (the brasserie is lined with cosy leather banquettes). The brasserie specialises in seafood and its stall on the corner of Boulevard Raspail and Boulevard Saint Germain is a spectacular shopfront of lobsters, crabs and oysters. I ordered three succulent oysters (speciales Claires) with shallot vinegar (€10,50) and a glass of the house champagne followed by a half-lobster with pearl barley risotto.

If you don’t feel like shellfish, meat dishes are not overlooked. There’s a good selection of traditional French bistro dishes, from steak tartare to andouillette and garlic roast chicken. My date went meaty with an enormous charcuterie plate followed by a tender roast of pork loin.

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