A New Creperie in the 6th

There’s been a spate of summer Paris restaurant openings this year, including La Compagnie de Bretagne, a swanky new crêperie, featuring pedigreed organic products from Brittany,  the signature of Olivier Roellinger as kitchen consultant and a design by Pierre-Yves Rochon.

Tucked between Odéon and the boulevard St.-Michel, La Compagnie is large by Paris crêperie standards, with an eat-in cider cellar, seating on the main floor with a view of the glassed-in kitchen and an airy dining room upstairs full of midday sun. Everything is black and white, like the Bréton flag. Still brand new, the crêperie feels a little like a model home or a scene from the Williams-Sonoma catalog—pretty but too perfect to be truly charming. That will change soon enough; dining rooms need diners like a theatre set needs actors, and once the chic 6th Arrondissement crowd returns from vacation, it will feel alive.

The menu is typical, with a selection of savory buckwheat galettes on one side and sweet dessert crêpes on the other. Options range from a simple filling of salted butter to more elaborate combinations like sardines with preserved lemon and eggplant, or langoustines and fennel. The wood-grilled sausage in my friend’s galette, served with a vinegary chutney, was delicious. I decided on the classiccomplète, filled with an egg, ham and cheese. There’s not much room for creativity there, though La Compagnie makes an attempt with the presentation. Galettes are usually served as a large square, but here they are half-moon shaped, the top layer flipped back on itself to give a peek at what’s inside. And actually, the ham wasn’t inside at all, but was laid across the plate. This pointless attempt at culinary deconstructionism aside, the galette itself was fine if a little soulless. The griddle, like the room, needs a bit more seasoning.

9, rue de l’École de Médecine, 75006, 01 43 29 39 00. Open daily noon to midnight.

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