The Paris Blog: Paris, France Expat Tips & Resources » Must-See

Paris Double Rainbow!

Laurie — Sat, 07 Jan 2012 18:02:18 +0000

Winter blues have set in over Paris. But try to look on the bright side! The cold months bring their own visual charm to the City of Light. Have a look at the amazing photo essay at Secrets of Paris for a reminder of the the stark beauty of l’hiver.

Dog + Pet Cemetery!

Cool Stuff in Paris — Tue, 03 Jan 2012 22:16:41 +0000

Le Cimetière des Chiens is in Asnières-sur-Seine, a commune in the suburbs just to the northwest of Paris proper. Don’t despair, it’s really not very far; only a 25-minute métro ride (if that) from central Paris — plenty close for you to pay a quick visit during your Parisian vacation!

While the cemetery is commonly referred to as simply Le Cimetière des Chiens, you’ll see a few places where the longer name of Le Cimetière des Chiens et Autres Animaux Domestiques (the cemetery of dogs and other pets) is given, including an inscription in stone on a monument near the entrance. So the cemetery has welcomed non-canine animals as well for a long time, perhaps since the place first opened in 1899. There are tons of cat graves, as well as some horses, at least one monkey, a sheep, a hen, etc.

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19th Century Paris

Invisible Paris — Fri, 04 Nov 2011 16:27:41 +0000

“Le Peuple de Paris” running at the Musée Carnavaet until February 26, 2012. It is a sociological investigation into the lives of the working classes in Paris in the 19th century, looking particularly at how these people and their lifestyles, were portrayed by artists and the media at the time, and provides an intruiging and original insight into an era that continues to fascinate us today.
I asked Miriam Simon, Chief Curator of the exhibition, about how the idea for the exhibition came about and what messages it is seeking to get across about a population and a period which is much misunderstood.

How did this exhibition originate?
The project stems from the fascinating graphic art collection we have at the Musée Carnavalet, particularly the fascinating and important set of caricature lithographs of the people of Paris. French historiography had, certainly until the 1970s, mainly studied the ‘people’ through the labour movement, so it seemed there was room for a more sociological investigation of this socio-economic category, which – taken in its widest sense – represented over two thirds of the population of Paris in the 19th century.

How different was life in Paris in the 19th century for the proletariat compared with earlier centuries?

Paris was confronted by many fundamental changes in the nineteenth century, including the industrial revolution, the extension and transformation of the city, and a population explosion, all of which substantially changed the lives of the people – their rhythms, their working conditions, their housing, the way they moved around, how they were looked after by philanthropic societies or governments, not to mention the beginnings of mass culture and the consumer society. However, some features remained from previous centuries, or in fact became things to fight for, in resistance to what was often becoming a very brutal way of life.
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Heritage Days Picks

Paris Weekends — Fri, 16 Sep 2011 03:02:56 +0000

One of the highlights of September in Paris is the annual Journées du Patrimoine (heritage days) weekend, where access is given to a wide range of normally closed to the public locations. Popular opinion will tell you that the event can involve nightmare 2-hour queues to visit some places (the Palais de l’Elysée, or President’s residence for example), but my recommendations are a little more out of the ordinary, and I can promise you that you won’t queue at all!

(Re)Discover the Train Stations of Paris
The theme of this year’s event is ‘Le Voyage,’ so what better place to start than at one of the city’s train stations? Amongst other discoveries, you’ll get a view of the city from the balcony of the Gare de l’Est, and at the Gare de Lyon you’ll be able to climb the famous clock tower.

Mémorial du Bazar de la Charité Built on the spot of a terrible fire that cost the lives of over 150 members of the aristocracy (with around 95% of the victims being female), this chapel is always open to the public daily. What is more rarely seen though is the memorial section at the rear which explains the tragedy in more detail and celebrates the lives of the victims.

Rue Jean-Goujon, 75008 Saturday – Sunday 14:00 to 17:30
Our Daily Bread The Du Pain et des Idees boulangerie near the Canal Saint Martin is not only a superb example of a 19th century establishment with its ceramics and painted glass, but also one of the best in the city today. To celebrate the fact that the shop is listed as a historic monument, and also the fact that baker Christophe Vasseur also uses 19th century techniques, the boulangerie will be open for the weekend for a series of events, including the chance to make your own dough!
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Sitting Guard

ParisDailyPhoto — Thu, 18 Aug 2011 14:23:37 +0000

I fell in love with this sphinx! Really stunning. I came across it by chance while walking in front of the Hotel de Salm, a former hotel particulier (a private house generally built by aristocrats before the 18th century, mostly) that is now the Musée de la Légion d’Honneur (a French order established by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1802).

Gertrude (and Leo) Stein’s Art Trove

Secrets of Paris — Sun, 14 Aug 2011 14:59:30 +0000

How many of you never got to see last year’s Monet exhibition at the Grand Palais? It was so popular that tickets sold out months in advance and the lines stretched for three-four hours – in winter – around the block. So it might be a good idea to buy advance tickets for what will surely be two of the most popular exhibitions this fall: Matisse, Cézanne, Picasso…L’Aventure des Stein is at the Grand Palais from October 5-January 16, and Cézanne et Paris will be at the Musée du Luxembourg from October 12-February 26. Get your tickets in advance online here (it seems only the French version has both exhibitions listed).

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Lou Doillon’s Rock Bar Hangout

Girls Guide to Paris — Sat, 06 Aug 2011 03:14:52 +0000

Le Fanfaron is one of the favorite Parisian bars of my girl crush du jour, Lou Doillon (daughter of Jane Birkin). In a very caché backstreet off Ledru Rollin (near Bastille), my girlfriend and I found what seemed to be a bit of a local secret. Situated on a narrow residential street, Le Fanfaron is a place that could only be found by word of mouth. The clientele is a fascinating mix of artists, musicians, writers, travelers young and old, using this intimate but psychedelic setting as if it was their own communal living room. It’s highly unusual to go to Le Fanfaron without meeting someone new, without witnessing one of the bartenders’ sensational alcohol-infused tantrums and certainly without having something pretty rock ’n’ roll to tell your friends about.

6 rue Main d’Or, 75011
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Chateau d’Angers

Totally Frenched Out — Sun, 31 Jul 2011 19:02:18 +0000

One of the things I’ve always liked about the Château d’Angers is that it’s so different from most of the other castles in the Loire Valley. As you can see from the pictures, instead of being an opulent palace like say Chenonceau or Chambord, it’s more of a fortress.

According to the signage outside, the current structure was built in 1232 on a site that previously housed a smaller fortress built by the Romans many-a-year ago. The other interesting thing about this castle is that it houses the Apocalypse Tapestry, which was commissioned in 1373 by Louis I. I always confuse this one with the famous Tapestry in Bayeux.

I do have to say though that the area between Angers and Saumur is one of my favorites in all of France. There’s a castle around every corner, lots of great wine (and other liquors like Cointreau), plus things to do for all ages and goûts. You can rent a bike and bike through the vineyards, canoe down the river, do a wine tasting, visit as many castles as your little heart desires.
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The Seine, Then

Secrets of Paris — Tue, 19 Jul 2011 04:14:26 +0000

Until the 18th century, thanks to its commercial and recreational value, the Seine and its banks were the place to be in Paris. At that time, the Seine was a place of partying and pleasure.

Royal celebrations were organized along the Seine and citizens headed down to the banks to wash themselves and their clothes. But commerce was important and these frequent gatherings along the river hindered boat dockings. With the increasing needs of the city, there was a delicate balance between recreation and commerce.

From the 1750s, recreational activities were phased out while the Seine underwent many improvements to become an industrial and commercial waterway on a national level.

The exhibition “Paris Sur Seine: from the old docks to Paris Plages” invites you to discover the many faces of the river and its banks from the 18th century to today.
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A Secret Garden in the 5th

Le Best of Paris — Fri, 15 Jul 2011 05:52:03 +0000

For a relaxing afternoon in Paris, most people will head to the array of charming parks, either in the centre of the city, like Jardin du Luxembourg, or the larger ones, like Grand Bois, on the outskirts. However, I’d argue no park is as peaceful as the Grande Mosquée de Paris in the 5^tharrondissement. Someone recommended I go because it was “beautiful,” but I don’t think that word does this remarkable site justice. It feels like Paradise.

The mosque is the oldest in Paris, having been built in the 1920s in memory of the estimated 100,000 Muslims that died fighting for France in the First World War. Visitors can, at their leisure, walk through the peaceful gardens – full of flowers, fountains, and channels of running water. With the only noises being the steady trickle of water droplets and the singing of birds, it is easy to think you are in a different country altogether. The tiled pathways are reminiscent of far-away lands, and everywhere seems to glitter in the sunlight. The Moorish architecture is stunning, and intricate detail abounds.

In addition to the surrounding gardens, you can wander through a few of the rooms, though of course not the areas reserved for prayer. One spot to note – the mosque hosts an old library.

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