Real foodies come to Paris with reservations made months in advance, restaurant guidebooks and newspaper clippings featuring recommendations of the latest and greatest on the local scene. It is true that this city has some absolutely fabulous cuisine, with new spots opening daily. But some of us like to travel light—without the guidebooks and without the limitations of reservations—while still hoping to run into some excellent cuisine. And let’s face it: even the most organized foodie can find herself strolling through a completely new neighborhood without a clue about what the neighborhood has to offer.

By “best,” let me be clear that I do not mean the fanciest or the most expensive restaurants. For me, the best food in the Marais is probably l’As du Fallafel, a takeout pita joint, and in my own neighborhood (the 15th) it is surely the Le Cosmos, which is just downstairs and offers hand-cut fries, house-made vinaigrette and a lively scene. More formal options are great, too—just not necessary.

My first trick is to ask the neighbors. If I am in a local shop, I’ll ask the shopkeeper where he eats and where he brings his friends. This is invariably a neighborhood joint with a lively atmosphere and fair prices. I especially use this tip when traveling outside of Paris, where I am less knowledgeable about my surroundings. I have never had a local lead me astray.

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