The Paris Blog: Paris, France Expat Tips & Resources

Win a Trip to Paris!

Laurie — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 13:51:34 +0000

Talbot’s. Ernest Hemingway. Blue jeans. See the connection? Neither do I. But the clothing company Talbot’s–a school-teachery line attempting to hipsterize itself with an ad campaign featuring Linda Evangelista in a leopard-print trench–is offering a trip to Paris. To enter the contest, you submit a six-word story with a blue jeans theme. (Inspired by Hemingway’s “For sale: Baby shoes, never used.”) Good luck!

Flea-ing at the Vanves Puces

Misplaced Texan — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 13:38:13 +0000

I started early, knowing that the stands pack it up and close up shop by about 1 pm. My original plan was to take a walk-through once and then go back to buy things, but I was meeting someone at noon and couldn’t take all the time I wanted in the end. So, I strolled through, stopping at the tables with folded printed fabric, painted porcelain plates and ceramic coffee pots. I saw some beautiful antiques at reasonably high prices as well as some totally unaffordable junk. Everyone was pretty friendly, though, and I generally felt comfortable eyeing over their tables and examining their goods. A woman pushing a small cart scurried through the crowds offering cups of hot thé à la menthe and vendors conversed with one another about their recent holidays. I was surprised to see so many anglophone vendors, and I even overheard one guy’s phone conversation about how he wasted so much time last week talking to a guy for 2 hours about the massive wooden cart he was selling before the guy walked away saying he was uninterested. It was clear he was sorely bitter about this.

At the start of the day, I had made a mental list of what I wanted to find, but I also told myself to keep an open mind about finding treasures that were not on my list. I got pretty lucky, and about 20 minutes into my flea market adventure, I stumbled upon a lovely old alarm clock – one nearly identical to the vintage clock that I have in my “Favorites” on Etsy. I wound the clock to check if it worked, and when I heard some tic-tocking, I asked for the price. The lady said she bought it for 25€, but was selling it for 15. There was no way I was paying that much, so I told her I’d give her 10€ if that was alright and after a slight customary hesitation, she agreed and I walked off with this lovely timepiece.

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Tea at the V

Secrets of Paris — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 13:27:58 +0000

The George V Four Seasons is well-known for its Michelin-starred restaurant Le Cinq. But for those of us who look for more affordable places to treat ourselves, La Galerie is the place to go. This elegant lounge is located along the windows facing the interior garden courtyard, between Le Bar and Le Cinq. That makes it the best place for people watching at the George V, especially if you’re sitting close to the bar.

I love the chandeliers, the tapestries, the gorgeous floral arrangements (they always have purple hydrangeas, my favorite), and — of course — the food. Even the most simple dishes are well done. Look at this salad: they’ve peeled the tomato skins off. The desserts are always incredible, so if you have a sweet tooth come for the afternoon tea to sample the dessert cart. The cheesecake and the apple tarte tatin are classics. On my last visit I had this amazing tiramisu: with fresh raspberries, blueberries, and little crunchy chocolate balls in the cream…I could have eaten a bucket of this!

Contemporary Art Explosion

Vingt Paris — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 13:15:18 +0000

With entrepreneurial mega-art dealer Larry Gagosian (pictured) opening what will be his ninth gallery worldwide, just off the Champs-Élysées during FIAC, Paris’ October contemporary art fair, it would appear that the city is making a revival as a new force in the international art market. Gauging by the powerhouse programs galleries have planned for fall, Paris is more than prepared to meet the challenge.

For the next two weeks, galleries across town will be flooded with frenzy, as collectors, dealers, artists and enthusiasts return from their holiday hibernations eager to mix, mingle and see what new creations await. Galleries throughout Beaubourg and the Marais will be opening their doors this Saturday evening September 4 with an exciting selection of contemporary talent. For the next two weeks, galleries across town will be flooded with frenzy, as collectors, dealers, artists and enthusiasts return from their holiday hibernations eager to mix, mingle and see what new creations await. Galleries throughout Beaubourg and the Marais will be opening their doors this Saturday evening September 4, with an exciting selection of contemporary talent.

JGM Galerie presents two simultaneous solo exhibitions with young, French artist, Chourouk Hriech’s “Cirrus and Ice Melody” and acclaimed, American artist Laurie Simmons’ “The Love Doll: Jours 1-17” in what should make for a compelling contrast, as well as boundary-bending exploration of reality and imagination.
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What to Do with Gypsies?

ParisDailyPhoto — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 13:38:56 +0000

If you visited Paris, you probably noticed what we call the Roms (gypsies), that is an ethnic group who originates from India and who settled down mostly in Eastern Europe. They are very poor and not really welcome anywhere (including their home country) but with the opening of the EU borders a lot of them emigrated to the West, including France. They are now in the middle of a political battle as the government is trying to send them back to where they are from (Romania mostly) and the opposition is accusing the government of being inhuman.

Where Celebs Go Unnoticed

A Seattleite in Paris — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 13:32:39 +0000

I’ve lived in Paris for a few years and I have yet to spot anyone famous (at least as far as I know). A couple of friends, however, have hit the celeb jackpot. The first had been in Paris less than two months, when she dined in a restaurant just a couple of tables away from Carlos Santana. Mr. Santana was apparently in the company of a couple of thin and significantly younger women. About a week later she spotted Benjamin whats-his-name, the supposed lover of the latest Mrs. Sarkozy. Another friend almost ran into Carla Bruni herself a few weeks ago. Clearly I spend time in the non-celeb parts of town.

New Bus Tours (That Aren’t Lame)

Secrets of Paris — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 13:28:53 +0000

There was the Open Tour and the Galeries Lafayette red bus tours, now there’s Foxity, the budget option for double-decker bus tours of Paris: top deck adult tickets are €12, students under 25 and seniors over 65 are €10, and kids under 12 are free (one per paying adult). You can also opt for the even cheaper lower deck for €9 (same price for everyone). Combined tickets for the bus and the Bateau-Mouches are €17 (kids €5). The pro: they have a heated upper deck with sliding transparent roof to keep you dry. The con: it’s not “hop-on, hop-off; you get on and stay on for the 90-minute tour (with audioguide). Departs from Galerie de la Madeleine, at 9 place de la Madeleine, 1st, from 10am through 10pm. Reserve your tickets online.

Another bus tour for night owls who like to party is the Soirée Bus. There’s a pubcrawl bus, for €28, which includes drinks at three Paris pubs, every Thursday, Friday and Saturday night from 9pm until the bars close. The second trip is a 90-minute drive around Paris at night with images on 4 flat-screens, a DJ, a glass of Champagne and beverage bar, every Wednesday from 9:30pm for €36/person. Reserve your tickets online.

Brutalist Architecture

Invisible Paris — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 14:10:46 +0000

A year ago I asked whether they were any true examples of brutalist architecture in Paris. The example I eventually found in the 13th arrondissement was positively gentle alongside this multi-story car park in the suburb of Nogent sur Marne!

It was no surprise to discover that this rather impressive structure is condemned today and will shortly be demolished. The reasons for this removal echo the explanations given by city planners across the world who have justified similar demolitions.

The regeneration project for the town entrance will modify the current physionomy of a district whose urban esthetics do not promote the image and attractiveness of Nogent.

In place of this structure will be something far more banal, but this sleek architectural froideur is apparently more acceptable today. Brutalism is still deeply unfashionable amongst city planners, but will it ever make a comeback or will buildings such as this one soon disappear for ever? It would be difficult to class this car park as attractive, but such solid and uncompromising lines certainly make for interesting photo opportunities. I can’t help feeling that one day we will regret the passing of this style.

Stuck on Glou

Eye Prefer Paris — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 14:02:06 +0000

This month I went to Glou in the Marais, which makes the kind of clean food I miss. They offer a two-course formule for 15 euros: appetizer and plat, or plat and dessert.
The starter of guacamole with toast and red pepper coulis looked great on the plate but taste wise was underwhelming and a bit bland. It basically was a puree of avocado with very little or non-existent spices and 2 pieces of peasant bread toast. They could have had at least served it with some interesting chips, breadsticks, or another type of bread. Simple doesn’t have to be boring. I fared much better with the plat which was a appetizing piece of daurade fish with the skin charred and crispy, surrounded by a healthy portion of stir fried julienne of vegetables that were well spiced. Dessert was a light, delicious and ever so satisfying strawberry trifle with Marscapone and crumbled biscuits which gave it crunch. Our spoons were fighting one another to taste every last bite, since we were sharing it.
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Lord of the Fleas

Girls Guide to Paris — Tue, 31 Aug 2010 13:57:38 +0000

I take people on extravagant shopping trips in Paris. The kind of trips destined to furnish a Lake Tahoe country house or decorate a New York City flat. I’ve even helped native Parisians find that “perfect” piece. My clients may be book collectors or art collectors or fans of art deco.

I love the galleries along the rue de Seine, and the ones on the rue Ste.-Anne. A stroll around the Drouot auction house is always worth the energy, or perhaps even a visit inside for a sale. If auction fever strikes, we may proceed to Christie’s, Sotheby’s or my personal favorite, Artcurial. There are specialist galleries selling treasures for every collector out there, and the shopping list is what dictates the itinerary.
And then there are the puces, or flea markets. My two favorites are Vanves and St.-Ouen, which is better known as the Marché aux Puces de Clignancourt. Clignancourt is the largest flea market in Europe. In fact, it is a collection of maybe a dozen separate markets all in one place. This is not a fleabag experience; antiques dealers will often have a stall here, in addition to a chic boutique in the city center, but they use the market stand as a place to test new concepts and trends in home decor, which means you’ll find some great souvenirs (beaver-fur top hat, anyone?), genuine antiques and fantastic design.

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