French Cuisine: Stuck in the Past?
As an American living in Paris one question I seem to be asked relatively often, by French and non-French alike, is “oh, France, don’t you love the food?” or “Isn’t the food amazing?” To which, perhaps being a bit of a rebel inside but also not able to be dismissive and flattering, reply something like, yeah; it is ok-cheese, butter, magret de canard are great, but what about diversity?
And then I go into a tirade about how Asian food has been bastardized here and how shameful that sushi restaurants put cheese on their menus in what must be a way to ease French culinary anxiety. My point being that yes, French appreciation for good, slow food is wonderful but it is too insular and living in this city after New York seems sleepy food-wise.
In the weekend Financial Times Arts & Leisure section was an article titled “Ripe for Revolution,” about the Omnivore festival in Deauville this weekend, and it’s founder, Luc Dubanchet, who started the monthly magazine of the same name with the goal of trying to shake up the French food world which he found boring, stuffy and complacent.
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