Mercerie is the French term for a sewing-goods shop, but the house specialty at the restaurant Mercerie Mullot is seafood– and the owner hasn’t missed a stitch with this charming little neighborhood joint. Here, tasteful black-and-white photos of fishermen line the walls, the waiter greets guests by their first names as they come in through the bright blue door and a sea scallop shell of tiny shrimp is served before you even order.
There is a weather-beaten écailleur preparing custom-ordered seafood platters on the sidewalk out front, even as five centimeters of snow coat his broad shoulders, and the owner has two brothers who are fishermen in Brittany, ensuring diners the very best from the sea. Local press claims la Mercerie serves one of the best sole meunières in the city.
My dates and I agreed to share a bouquet of langoustines and a serving of shrimp as a starter. Without even looking at the chalkboard menu, I ordered the sole, which the waiter promptly offered to debone before serving. We also ordered the roast Saint-Pierre and the grilled abalone. The shrimps from our starter were so good that there was some serious negotiating over who ate how many. When the main course arrived, the fish was absolutely perfect. Each dish was served with an array of roasted vegetables, their rich, earthy flavors a welcome counterbalance to the acid of a chilly glass of sauvignon—authentically fresh and light French cuisine at its best.
19, rue de Bréa, 75006, 01 43 26 08 06