Lunch in a Former Stationer’s Shop

caffe sternI met a friend for lunch at Caffe Stern and was trepidatious about how much the space would be changed. I was pleasantly surprised when I saw that the original moldings, woodwork, signs and architectural details were intact from its past as a stationer’s shop, and later learned the interiors and furniture were listed as an official Historic Monument of France. The atmosphere was still dark and club-like but modernized in a tasteful and befitting way.

My friend had raved about the food when she dined there last summer, especially about the potato cappuccino with ragu Bolognese. Many months later the memory of the cappuccino was still lodged in the food side of my brain and I was breathless to finally try this intriguing dish. It arrived in a big cappuccino cup with a tomato red saucer. dish at caffe sternIt was a cold blustery day and the combination of the hearty meat ragu and the soft whipped potatoes were a godsend of comfort food reimagined in the most delicious way. Even though any other dish after the cappuccino would have been a letdown, the lamb Milanese was almost as sensational. Expecting a thinly pounded cutlet, we were surprised when three thick slices of meat (rare, of course), delicately breaded on the sides looking more like a pork tenderloin, was served. It was accompanied by an artichoke heart and stem that was crispy brown around the edges, giving it a crunchy effect.

>more

Comments are closed