Passage 53 is #1

passage 53I had low expectations for Passage 53. This newish restaurant inside the city’s oldest covered passageway has drawn very mixed reviews. A number of eaters who I trust have been disappointed here. Other palates had been pleased, but their measured compliments never moved me to pick up the phone. Then my boyfriend, who wanted to celebrate a new job, asked to go. I’m not one to shy away from spending money on food, but the idea of shelling out €200 for mediocrity was honestly filling me with dread. Nevertheless, I made a same-day reservation and tried to keep an open mind. It was one of the best meals I’ve ever had. Here’s why: The product is impeccable. We expect this from a place that’s owned by Hugo Desnoyer, the butcher whose name is scribbled on source-savvy menus all across town. passage 53 dishThe butter is Bordier, the oysters Gillardeau, the veggies of course are Joël Thibault. These are the things that I will long for if ever I’m forced to leave France.


53 Passage des Panoramas, 2nd arrondissement, 01 42 33 04 35

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