Prince Tiny Meat

I got wind of Clandestino, an up and coming restaurant serving inventive French cuisine which hasn’t hit the big time yet and still sort of a secret.

The restaurant was mostly empty when we arrived at 12:30 and my infatuation with cute waiters was stimulated again with two new hotties, one with the sweetest, million-dollar smile.

We liked the quirky décor with table settings of vintage dishes and a pasted together wall sculpture of kitchen utensils and objects.

As with many restaurants in Paris, the formule only has two selections of each dish. My starter was a refreshing dish of micro-thin slices of raw sea scallops and radishes marinated in tangy passionfruit. Lynn had endive with Roquefort cheese and slices of Iberian ham, which she loved, even though she doesn’t usually like ham. I had the most tender, falling-off-the-bone pork ribs with sautéed cabbage. The only criticism I had was that is it was so good there wasn’t enough to satisfy me. Citrus seemed to be a theme, and Lynn’s daurade was also citrus-marinated with a sprinkling of walnuts.

When these odd food combinations work it’s a delightful surprise but sometimes they fall flat on their face. A dessert of a thick chocolate concoction that was too rich and gooey, topped with a beet sorbet, was a flop, and we were both disappointed because the meal had a promising start.

The other shortcoming of the lunch was the portions were on the puny/precious side. When food is that good you want more of it.

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