Can’t get a room where Oscar Wilde fought his famous last battle with the wallpaper? Why not just go for lunch at the restaurant of L’Hôtel, which gained a Michelin star in March 2008, is one of Paris’s foodie bargains and, I’ve been told, attracts famous regulars such as Johnny Depp and Vanessa Paradis (who, sadly, couldn’t be there the day I visited).
The carte is a light and inventive take on classical French cuisine. and, as it’s nearly summer, the menu du jour has a Provencal accent.
As I ordered, I was brought an amuse-bouche of chilled sea-foamy cucumber soup and the restaurant’s own breadsticks made with truffle oil.
This was followed by a tartare of crab, sprinkled with gold leaf and tiny flowers (“You can eat it all,” my waiter assured me), then a brique of meltingly soft tuna with girolles (wild mushrooms) cooked to preference. Dessert is a work of art which must be ordered at least 15 minutes in advance. Mine was a delicious medley of strawberries and fraises de bois - mini strawberries that taste of vanilla.
13, Rue Beaux Arts, 75006 Paris, France, 01 44 41 99 00