The Olive Oil on Everyone’s Tongue

tetedanslesolivesparisblogIn Paris, food is fashion. And just as fashion has its trends and fads, so does food. In January of this year, influential food critic François Simon (after whom the über-critic Anton Ego was modeled for the movie Ratatouille) posted a not-so-scary piece on his blog about La Tête Dans les Olives, a tiny shop in the charming but oft-overlooked Rue Sainte-Marthe in the 10th arrondissement. By month’s end, every other food blogger – both English and French language – had sussed it out. even set an episode of a show there. And in April, things reached a fever pitch when the shop was featured in Alain Ducasse’s so-called “marché” at the Plaza Athenée. (It wasn’t a market, but a showcase of his artisanal suppliers.)

olivesparisblogSo by now, everyone’s talked about proprietor Cedric Casanova’s (still fascinating) career transformation from circus performer to exclusive purveyor of olive oil to the namesake restaurant of France’s most decorated chef. And, of course, about his olive oil. Which is – on the record – fantastic. Of course, I had to go and see for myself if it was up to the hype. And – maybe off the record – to see if I could call BS on yet another Parisian trend.

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