Imagine our excitement last Friday evening when we saw none other than the President of the Republic, François Hollande, dining at the gastronomic jewel in the crown of the 18th arrondissement: La Table d’Eugène. Proof that not only is this part of the 18th becoming hipsterfied – it’s positively being gentrified.
Helmed by chef Geoffrey Maillard and his sous-chef François Vaudeschamps – who have previously worked at Le Bristol, Le Plaza Athenée, Alain Senderens and Taillevent between them – the discreet Table d’Eugène has been drawing connoisseurs to rue Eugène Sue for the last five years since it opened (and is, as such, perhaps a trailblazer for having set up in this part of town). Last September it unveiled its new decor – muted tones of beige, grey and oak – behind curtained windows, cocooning patrons in its small, subtly luxurious dining room, where service is slick and the food takes center stage. The menu is seasonal – changing every 10 days – with high-quality individual ingredients sourced from small-scale producers. Fixed-price dinner menus range between €55 and €99 and may feature dishes such as sea bream tartare with yuzu and daikon, or veal with truffle mashed potatoes, caramelised shallots and pan-fried chanterelle mushrooms, all beautifully presented, and punctuated by amuses-bouches, palette cleansers and pre-desserts, and paired with wines from their superlative selection (the Pattes Loup Chablis, €48, goes down a treat).