The “other” side of Montmartre – down the hill from the prime tourist photo-op territory of the Sacre Coeur – is bubbling up as one of the coolest neighborhoods in Paris right now. The burger bar Le Ruisseau is drawing local hipsters out of the woodwork, as is the trendy mid-century modern furniture shop Maison Nordik. Those are the latest places helping Lamarck Caulaincourt to become a solid empire of interesting, independent establishments. One of the area’s top draws is the charming Venezuelan sandwich joint Bululu – the only arepera in Paris. In the small space, with chipboard tables and recycled tin cans as cutlery holders, a team of pretty girls with flowery headscarves explain the Venzuelan sandwiches on offer: made from freshly baked, golden, gluten-free bread, arepas are a filled with various ingredients such as avocado, tajada (plantain), black beans, cheese and beef.